Postcard from Menorca

My travel guide to the "most low-key" Balearic Island: a stunning, family-friendly place with a penchant for inspired design.

We are just back from Menorca, where we fell in love with the island (a UNESCO Biosphere reserve) rife with beautiful calas, Caribbean-clear water, and an impressive design and hospitality scene despite its small size.

After several friends fervently praised the "most low-key" Balearic Island (and the ease of traveling there with kids), we planned a joint family summer vacation, and escaped New York's heat wave for Europe's heat wave and the delights of the Mediterranean in the (early-ish) summer.

Also, if you missed it, yesterday I shared a Menorca-inspired roundup of finds influenced by my travels.

STAY

We spent our first few days in Torre Vella Fontenille, a classic Finca (countryside estate) transformed into a rural retreat. Think boardwalks surrounded by aromatic plants, olive groves, and the most beautiful pool surrounded by tall grasses.

Bottom left image via: guide.michelin.com

Whitewashed buildings, dusty paths, a horse for our kids to feed, and a vineyard where we enjoyed the most beautiful communal dinner made Torre Vella the most special spot. We would return in a heartbeat.

Torre Vella Fontenille is fairly centrally located on the island (notably about halfway between the eastern capital of Mahón and Ciutadella (the large port city on the West Coast), making it a great base for exploring.

We based out of Cristine Bedfor in Mahón for the second half of the trip. Everyone in our group fell in love with the island's capital. Great shopping, chic restaurants, and gorgeous plazas dot this cool town, and spending time there was a highlight. The hotel – with its gorgeous collected aesthetic, lush courtyard, and elegant rooms – is an absolute gem, just minutes away from excellent shops and restaurants.

Top left image via: www.cnntraveller.com/article/shopping-in-mahon

TO DO (& EAT!):

Wander through nearby Es Mercadal: the prettiest little whitewashed town strewn with handmade flags and ribbons. It houses Monte Toro (the highest point on the island) and is famous for its night market, featuring local vendors and gourmet food sellers (pop into Ben Gelat for ice cream).

Explore one of Menorca's many calas (coves with notably fine sand and clear water). Some of the best require a little trek, but the island's gorgeous inlets are worth the walk.

We loved the popular Cala Mitjana with its rocky cliffs above the sea (for adventurous jumpers) and crystal clear water. It's only accessible by boat or a 1.5km walk through a pine grove (we bribed our kids with ice cream after the hike).

I found Cala Alcaufar - surrounded by traditional whitewashed homes presumably once (still?) belonging to the area's fishermen - to be one of the most picturesque and charming coves. Despite the season, this cove was relatively empty, and we spent hours climbing on the rocky outcrops (which connect to the Camí de Cavalls trail) without passing many others.

After swimming and climbing at Cala Alcaufar, stop for a fresh fish and Iberian ham lunch at Xuroy overlooking the cove.

Right image via: www.xuroymenorca.com

Another great beach is Es Grau. The large cove of waist high (very warm!) water makes swimming and splashing with kids (or wave averse adults) delightful. There's also a cluster of charming whitewashed buildings a short walk from the beach. We ate at Tamarindos right on the water (the kids literally jumped in the ocean during the meal) and the setting (and food) were idyllic.

Top left image via: www.tamarindomernorca.com

Hike the Camí de Cavalls (the 185 km trail that encircles Menorca). Peter and I would love to return (solo and not in summer) to trek the island's coast. The route (which translates to "The Way of the Horses" and has origins dating to the 14th century) is divided up into 20 sections, so that it can be tackled as a series of day trips. One of my favorite travel resources has a lot of intel, and I'll be referring back in the hope of doing this some day!

Get out on the water: We always say boat days are the best days, and the two days we spent exploring the Southern and Northern coasts respectively were highlights of the trip.

We first spent a full day with Navega Menroca cruising around the South with stops in pristine coves for paddleboarding, snorkeling, and for a few of us, 40 foot cliff jumping.

We climbed ashore for lunch at Mar Plato in Son Ganxo at the Southernmost point of the island, where the kids played in a pool while we enjoyed incredible just-caught fish.

Our second boat day was with the excellent captain Diego of Posidony, who shared his vast knowledge of the island with us and took us to gorgeous and remote coves on the North of the island (we departed from Fornells).

We returned to Fornells for an excellent lunch at Can Tanu just off the main drag in the harbor. I highly recommend the fideuà (essentially paella made with a short, thin pasta). Head across the street to the beautiful Ricardo Riera bakery afterwards for homemade gelato.

Head to Ciutadella, a port city on the West coast of the island known for its old quarter. We ate at S'Amarador (beautifully situated on the harbor), but save time for shopping too: The Room for women's clothing, Sweet Dreams for great block-printed vacation dresses (including for little girls), and Etesian Gallery.

Visit Illa del Rei: Hauser & Wirth's art island. From Mahón, take a short ferry to this small island in the capital city's harbor that housed a hospital in the 18th century, and is now conserved by the international gallery Hauser & Wirth. It has exhibition galleries, learning spaces (our kids enjoyed an awesome art class and delighted in the dress-up area), and a restaurant (Cantina, not to be missed).

Wander (& shop) in Mahón. We were so enamored with Mahón: chic shops, a cool restaurant scene, great antique stores. It's the perfect town to wander all day and pause just for bites and cocktails (try Xoriguer, Menorca's local gin).

SHOPPING IN MAHÓN:

Tabouret for wabi sabi modern designs; think contemporary furniture, beautiful tactile art pieces, and the most incredible smelling candles.

Kathryn and I loved Can Sab Shop. Owned by the cutest French gal, the store stocks homewares, jewelry, and clothes along with an incredible selection of vintage furniture.

La Cereria was our favorite clothing and home accessories store in Mahón. It stocks chic independent brands (including some favorites like Cordera), accessories, and lovely gifts.

Le Souvenir for sweet gifts and a good selection of vacation clothes. Sis came home with the coolest vintage rattan fish light.

Antiguedades Trastets has the most beautiful antique finds from Spain and elsewhere in Europe. We wanted to leave with everything (including great green jugs that Carlos, the owner, had sourced from Tangier).

Nanai Atelier makes lovely cotton dresses, robes, and ready-to-wear (Peter walked away with the coolest ocean-hued jacket) and also stocks swimwear, vintage kimonos, and handmade jewelry.

Poc & Poc for silk caftans and leather goods handmade in Spain.

Hetra, owned by an Argentinian, features fashionable clothing and shoes she sources from her home country.

Bobas Menorca features handmade espadrilles and caftans. Kathryn and I were so into straw hats that the owner had painted with graphic designs as an homage to Sonia Delaunay.

Seemingly non-existent on the internet, Curiosités Minorica on Carrer de la Iglesia stocked beautiful oyster plates from the 1940s alongside local spirits.

EATING IN MAHÓN (& BEYOND):

Some of our favorite meals were in Mahón. We really fell for this little town, and exploring its charming streets during the summertime nights (when the sun sets after 9 pm and dinner begins sometime after that) made us feel like we were really on vacation.

Oysters Menorca for epic design sensibility paired with delicious oysters (and seafood) and good wine. We went before dinner but could have stayed for hours.

Right image via: https://oystersmenorca.com/oyster-bar/

Recommended to us by a local, Ses Forquilles is a restaurant beloved by locals that's been around for over 15 years.

Perhaps our favorite meal, Bar Augustin on Mahón's central Plaza de España, got it all right. The food was great, we wanted to be best friends with the server, and even the timing of everything was perfect.

Cantina, the restaurant at Hauser & Wirth's Illa del Rei, is a must-stop and a blast for lunch. The food is excellent and the tables are situated under olive trees with views of the water.

We loved eating at Menorca Experimental, a hotel just down the road from where we stayed at Torre Vella Fontenille. We had a big round table in an outdoor courtyard; the crowd was pretty glamorous, and the cocktail list was excellent.

For great views and a little adventure just outside of Mahón, check out Cap Roig, perched on a cliff and serving great seafood since the 1980s.

Lastly: Pigalle! Peter, Kathryn, and Nick got sick of hearing me talk about this French bakery in town, but ridiculous baked goods and orange wine are truly my happy place, and it was across from several of my favorite shops. Basically, perfection!

Menorca, we LOVED you. We will be back.

xx,

Lizzie